How do I install the lithium battery on a ROCOL rivet tool?
Insert the battery pack (85) into the gun body (32) — the battery lock (86) pops up to secure it. To remove, press lock (86) and pull out. Only use original ROCOL lithium batteries to protect the tool and warranty.
How do I replace the pull rod on the RL-T2 / RL-860?
Remove the gun-head shell (4), drag the quick-release sleeve (8) back, unscrew the old pull rod (1), screw in the correct new pull rod, and reset sleeve (8). If it won't reset, rotate the pull rod less than 1/3 turn until it clicks. Standard: pull rod (1) and transmission rod (44) have no relative rotation.
How do I set the riveting deformation on the RL-T2 / RL-860?
With the pull rod (1) in the reset state, press the '−' or '+' button on the control panel — the LCD shows the current deformation setting. Adjust to the desired value for your nut and sheet thickness.
What is the difference between Auto and Manual mode on the RL-T2?
In Auto mode (indicator flashes), after the nut auto-screws in, the tool waits 0.5s then pulls to the set value with no switch press. In Manual mode (indicator steady), after auto-screw-in you must press the switch (24) to rivet.
How do I use the child-lock on the RL-T2?
With the pull rod (1) reset, press '−' and '+' together — the LCD shows 'LL' and child-lock engages; '−'/'+' can't be changed while locked. Press both again to release.
How do I perform a riveting operation with the RL-T2 / RL-860?
Screw the rivet nut onto pull rod (1) 1–2 threads, press gently so it auto-spins in and stops, place into the workpiece hole against the surface, then press the power switch (24). The rod auto-returns to set position, spins out and resets — one cycle done.
How do I set up the RL-X1 for MES integration?
RL-X1 transmits riveting data and force curves to a dedicated controller over Wi-Fi in real time; the controller links to the factory MES, OP, MODBUS and other systems via hardware ports. One controller manages 1–4 tools simultaneously for full quality traceability.
Why are my rivet nuts not deformed enough?
Three common causes: wrong stroke setting (re-adjust stroke), workpiece thickness mismatch (check nut and plate thickness), or low battery voltage (charge/replace). Re-check the deformation value for your nut size.
Why won't my rivet nuts automatically screw into the pull rod?
Causes: nut embedded improperly (use correct nut), wrong pull-rod installation (fit correct rod), old/damaged rod (replace), or wrong gun-head assembly (re-seat). Verify the rod size matches the nut (e.g., M6 rod with M6 nut).
Why is the pull rod stuck in the workpiece?
Usually a defective nut (replace rivet nuts) or an incorrect/damaged pull rod (replace). Set stroke to 0, hold the switch, and replace the nut or rod as needed.
Why did the pull rod break?
Two causes: stroke set too high (re-set stroke) or single-side force on the rod (keep the tool parallel to the nut). Always align the tool squarely with the workpiece.
Why does my riveter have no movement?
Causes: battery empty or under-voltage (charge/replace), or riveting capacity beyond the tool's range (select the correct model). Confirm the tool matches your rivet/nut size.
What should I do if the motor overloads and the red fault light flashes?
Remove the lithium battery (85) and gun-head shell (4) to clear the fault point, then reinstall the battery (85), press the switch (24), and reset the tool to normal.
Is the pull rod a consumable?
Yes. The pull rod is a wear part — clean or replace it when dirty or worn. The rod size must match the rivet nut (e.g., M6 rod with M6 nut). Keep spares on hand for continuous production.